Have you heard? People are drinking less. Or at least, that’s what all the surveys and headlines are hinting at. Whether data offers a clear snapshot of America’s current alcohol intake is debatable, but one thing does seem certain: low-ABV drinks are outshining their boozier counterparts.
When you think about timeless low-ABV cocktails—campari spritz, sherry cobbler, vermouth highball—all of them slot in well with daily rituals like cooking or a sobremesa. They offer complex flavor combinations that are enjoyable both alone or paired with food, and most obviously, the lower alcohol content is ideal. Full-proof classics still shine, but the current landscape of low ABV is abundant in choice right now.
A few anthropological observations that illustrate this include the mini cocktail craze (long live the teeny ’tini), the proliferation of aperitif culture, entire beverage menus devoted to low ABV, and the renaissance of fortified wines and herbal liqueurs—just to name a few.
Of course, this isn’t a new concept—low ABV has been steadily growing in the U.S. for more than a decade. “It’s no longer just a trend, it’s become a lasting shift in the way people enjoy drinking,” Milos Zica says, who is partner and beverage director at Cafe Susanne and Bar Susanne. He suggests that rather than switching entirely to low-alcohol drinks, we’re all just looking for balance. “Guests still appreciate a beautifully-made martini or old fashioned, but they also want drinks that allow them to stay social, enjoy multiple rounds, and feel good throughout the evening.”
This summer, Bar Susanne created a dedicated spritz menu anchored by fortified wines, aperitifs, fresh citrus, herbs, and sparkling wine; an evolution beyond the classic Aperol or Hugo Spritz. At Stars in the East Village, the team serves low-ABV cocktails year-round, but finds they really hit the spot in summer. “’Tis the season for easy-going sipping,” says owner Chase Sinzer, who shares that white wine spritzes, vermouth sodas, and Spaghetts (theirs is topped with Cappelletti) are all in high demand.
Some are taking cues from established low-ABV cocktails and reimagining them with seasonal ingredients. At The Musket Room, Jeanne Torres and her team turn waste from the kitchen into house-fermented sodas to use in low-ABV drinks. “At the moment we’re using strawberry trim from pastry to infuse Pimm’s for a refreshing session spritz,” she says. “With the addition of a little pineapple amaro we create a riff on a traditional Pimm’s cup.”
Stars interprets classic cocktails through a low-alcohol lens, recently debuting their spin on the espresso martini to coincide with the launch of daytime coffee service. The team worked with Maru on a custom espresso bean blend for Stars (“not too fruity or sharp; call it ‘darkly refreshing’”) and paired it with a housemade espresso syrup, shochu, and aromatics—et voila, a low-proof twist on an infamously boozy drink. “We found these beautiful Bobo glasses to present it elegantly,” Sinzer says, adding they also offer a mini size for those who want less alcohol or caffeine.
The petite-sized cocktail, in particular, shows no signs of going dry. At The Dutch’s new nine-seat martini bar in SoHo, bar director Darryl Chan just unleashed a flight of teeny tinis, including the Hudson Sea Breeze made with gin, Cocchi Americano, amontillado sherry, and cranberry bitters. Emmy Squared’s Shannon Noecker says the restaurant’s ‘Shorty’ lineup of mini cocktails is “a way to enjoy a quick cocktail without the guilt, whether that’s on a lunch break or at happy hour.” At Capitaine (a new seafood tavern in the West Village), diners have the privilege of beginning their meal with a tiny-sized dry gin, dirty vodka, or vesper martini for $11. Less commitment, equal fun.
For those who prefer a full-sized drink, consider the long list of bars and restaurants pivoting their menus toward low ABV. In Atlanta, James Beard Award winner Miller Union recently created a no-and-low-ABV cocktail menu, with current stunners like the Georgia Afternoon (fino sherry, peach, and lemon). Over at San Francisco’s acclaimed Trick Dog, the team is always grabbing sherry, says bar manager Travis Howse. “As a low-ABV option that still packs a ton of flavor, it’s a go-to starting point for any drink,” he says.
Similar to sherry, other versatile ingredients that play nicely with low-ABV drinks include low-proof spirits such as shochu and soju (from Japan and Korea, respectively). At Coqodaq, their Walk On By cocktail brings together Khee soju with low-proof gin, cucumber, lemon, and mint for a refreshing summer sip that’s even better when enjoyed with their famous fried chicken.
Then there’s vermouth, which is equally as excellent in a low-ABV cocktail as it is on its own. At Kinda Nice in Williamsburg, their Orange Cream cocktail is made with blanc vermouth, orange juice, orange blossom water, vanilla extract, and orange zest for a light and bright sip that evokes a grown-up Stewart’s orange cream soda. Bar Oliver conjures Spanish and Basque aperitivo traditions with its robust offering of vermouth (plus sherry, wine, and cider). “The fact that we don’t serve spirits gives us the opportunity to do something a little different with our menu,” says head bartender Andrew Pickup. “Our back bar is filled with an incredible range of Spanish vermouths, each with its own personality. Some are bright and citrusy, others are herbal, spicy, or pleasantly bitter, but all of them are delicious served simply over ice or with a splash of soda or tonic.”
If all this talk of low ABV has you wanting to mix up your own easy-going drink at home, Zica suggests stocking up on a quality bottle of sparkling wine, a few different vermouths, a great aperitif, and a selection of flavored sparkling waters or premium sodas. “These ingredients can be mixed and matched in countless ways with very little effort,” he explains.
Below, a few low-ABV recipes to get started with.
For a Classic Aperitivo:
Ingredients
1 oz Campari
0.5 oz Mancino Chinato
0.5 oz Punt e Mes
1 oz A’ Siciliana Melograno
2 oz champagne or prosecco
1 dash Bitter Truth orange bitters
1 dash saline solution (1:50 salt: water)
Directions
To make Dante Aperitivo’s Americano, build in a highball with ice. Stir to combine and ensure glass is filled to the top with ice. Garnish with an orange wedge.
For a Hot-Weather Highball:
Ingredients
2 oz Olorosso sherry
Cheerwine
Directions To make Trick Dog’s Oloroso and Cheerwine,
Directions
To make Trick Dog’s Oloroso and Cheerwine, add sherry to a glass, fill with ice, and top with Cheerwine. Garnish with a lime wedge.
For an Espresso Martini:
Ingredients
1.5oz Coffee syrup
1 oz Shochu
.5 oz Mulassano vermouth
1 oz Fresh espresso
4 Drops of saline
Directions
To make the Espresso Martini by Stars, shake until cold and strain into a martini glass. To make the mini version, halve the proportions.
For a Summery Spritz:
Ingredients
1.5 oz Savoia Orancio
3 oz Prosecco
1 oz Ginger beer
3 dashes Orange bitters
Orange twist
Rosemary sprig
Directions
To make Bar Susanne’s Savoia Spritz, pour all ingredients into a wine glass filled with ice. Stir gently 2–3 times to combine. Garnish with an orange twist and rosemary sprig. “Bright and refreshing, with citrusy, herbal, bittersweet notes, a touch of spice, and a lively effervescence.”
Source: www.vogue.com
