From clunky bread makers and celebrity-endorsed mini grills to spiralizers and sous vide machines, countless kitchen gadgets have gone from en vogue to passé in a flash, reduced to little more than counter clutter. Yet the humble mortar and pestle endures. The visceral, lo-fi nature of this particular piece of technology is key to its appeal. Using a simple clublike instrument (the pestle) to grind spices, herbs, and other aromatics into a bowl (the mortar) creates a certain embodied wisdom that you can only learn by doing. Perhaps it’s this very aspect that has brought it back to the forefront of today’s culinary conversation, as many seek out analog connection in a world that can feel painfully online.
People in Southwest Asia and the Middle East have been using versions of this workhorse since around 35,000 B.C.E. The Egyptian Ebers Papyrus—one of the oldest known medical texts—illustrates that porcelain models have been a chemist’s BFF since around 1550 B.C.E. Despite the tool’s undeniable influence in the medical realm (remember the old Walgreens logo?), it’s the mortar and pestle’s many uses in food preparation that have given it true staying power.
Size, style, and material vary widely across cultures. There’s the molcajete, which has been prevalent in Mexico for roughly 8,000 years; and the suribachi, with its distinctive ridged interior, which was introduced to Japanese cooks by Chinese traders in the 11th century. In early 20th-century Papua New Guinea, dap daps were long and thin, and often used for crushing betel nuts. The super-size Middle Eastern jeren can weigh up to 100 pounds. Below, you’ll find options in clay, brass, granite, and volcanic stone, all of which turn smashing spices into a tactile pleasure.
Handcrafted by artisans in Thailand, this oversize krok features a glazed terra-cotta mortar. Its particular design is intended for bruising ingredients rather than grinding them. It’s an essential tool for making som tum, the zippy green papaya salad.
As durable as it is attractive, it’s no wonder granite has been a popular material for millennia. This Latin-owned New York City company designed a user-friendly mortar with a handy spout and a colorful silicone base for increased range of motion.
A cornerstone of Indigenous Mexican cuisine, this vessel harkens back to a period when people relied on foraging. Canteros, or stoneware craftsmen, like Don Enrique of San Salvador El Seco, have been carving this style out of volcanic rocks for centuries.
Design heads, this one’s for you. Craftsman Gareth Neal is behind the striking appearance of this ingenious tool, which is equal parts form and function. It’s made of food-safe granite and will help pummel your aromatics with ease—all while looking stunning on your countertop.
Mortars and pestles made of brass aren’t unique to India, but they’re certainly popular there. The metal has a low corrosive quality, making it ideal for pulverizing herbs, and the steep-sided cup is handy for crushing cardamom pods without sending them flying.
Father–daughter duo David and Ariel Holcomb are behind this sleek suribachi-inspired beauty. The interior ridges make light work of nut-laced pesto, while the ash wood base allows the mortar to pivot as you work, creating a clever ergonomic experience.
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Source: www.saveur.com
