That’s one smaller size for Omega, and one giant leap for Omega-kind. The brand’s iconic Speedmaster, best known for accompanying Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong to the moon as part of the Apollo 11 mission, just got a very 2026 makeover. Since its launch in 1957, the Moonwatch’s diameter has remained fixed at 42 millimeters. But the newest versions have been hit by a barely functioning shrink ray, bringing the proportions down to a very wearable 38mm.
I know. You’re probably thinking: It’s just a few millimeters, what’s the big deal? That tweak to Omega’s flagship watch might read like a rounding error, but it’s a big deal on a practical level, and speaks volumes about what watch collectors are looking to buy these days. “Speedmaster fans have wanted a smaller alternative to the 42mm Professional Moonwatch for a long time, but until now, the 38mm was nothing like the classic Speedy,” says Chris Hall, the author of the watch newsletter The Fourth Wheel and an upcoming book about Omega.
“By changing details like the subdial shape and bezel style, Omega has gone some way to fixing that.”
In the watch world, millimeters are counted with the fevered intensity of teenaged boys arguing over baseball cards. Mark Cho, the co-founder of The Armoury and one of the most tasteful watch collectors on the planet, recently conducted his third edition of his Ideal Watch Size Survey.
According to the 3,000 enthusiasts he polled,
According to the 3,000 enthusiasts he polled, the ideal watch size for an everyday piece is 38 millimeters—a.k.a. the exact size of this new Speedmaster. Omega has toyed with plenty of slimmed-down Speedmasters over the years before arriving at these latest models. The brand took great pains to ensure the previous collection of 38mm Speedmasters had a separate visual language from the Moonwatch—namely subdials that look like they’ve just landed in a pond and now have ripples of water radiating out from them.
Another earlier variation, called the First Omega in Space, has become beloved among modern collectors in part because of its smaller size (39.7mm). But this new 38mm release finally delivers the watch the community’s been waiting on. The big news of this release is that the standard black-on-black dial Speedmaster—the one that most closely resembles the version Aldrin and Armstrong wore—now comes in the new size.
“The Speedmaster 38mm has always taken its cues from the Moonwatch, while keeping size, color, and simplicity in mind. With this latest update, we’ve taken the Moonwatch inspiration even further,” Raynald Aeschlimann, Omega’s CEO and president, said in a statement. This is essential, because in the watch world—where details are everything—there’s a big difference between “taking cues” and delivering a real-deal Moonwatch.
Last week, I just so happened to be
Last week, I just so happened to be in Biel/Bienne, where Omega is headquartered, and got to try on the new Speedies. As someone who has long found the OG Speedy too bulky and borderline uncomfortable to wear, I actually felt like I could wear these new editions day in and day out. And unless I came across another watch nerd who treats guessing watch diameters like a parlor game, the new 38mm would be nearly indistinguishable from the standard size to most people unafflicted with The Bug.
Let me show you what else you’ve won by reading down this far: images of six additional new Speedmasters. The other variants are closer in spirit to the existing options at this size, meaning they lean into color and some treat diamonds as give-ins. Omega set one with 52 diamonds and stuck a mother-of-pearl dial inside; that was the most difficult one to pry from my wrist. The watch merges standard Moonwatch fare with the flashier options they’ve made for celebrities like Colman Domingo in the past few years.
As the watch market goes increasingly upscale, Omega has found smart ways to take what is ostensibly a sport watch and transform it into high-end luxury fare. The other pieces released today dress up the Speedmaster in pale shades of blue, olive, and silver. One playful option, known as “the Cappuccino,” combines multiple shades of brown. While these colorways won’t be new to those who enjoy trawling Omega’s catalog, seeing them put in 38mm with the standard subdials is like watching a crooked painting get leveled.
Over the past few years, due in large part to pressure from collectors seeking out smaller watches, brands have eagerly supplied pieces that match up with these vintage-inspired tastes. The best manifestation of this trend is the icons that have found a way to shed a few millimeters. The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most iconic watches on earth—and space!—and now it finally comes in the perfect size.
Source: www.gq.com
