To the casual tourist, Florence may seem like a city preserved in amber. Wander around the centro storico, where austere Renaissance palaces line the streets and Brunelleschi’s dome dominates the skyline, and you might feel like you’ve stepped onto a movie set. But Florence is very much a living, breathing city. Things may change slowly here, but they do change. When visiting Florence, it’s important to remember that the city has gone through countless ups and downs.
It has survived plagues, wars, and floods. It was established as a Roman city, declined during the Middle Ages, and was reborn during the Renaissance. It even had a brief turn as the capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Italy from 1865 to 1871. It drew writers, artists, and aristocrats during the Grand Tour, and it continues to draw legions of visitors today—perhaps too many visitors.
At times, it can feel impossible to escape the crowds. It gets unbearably hot in the summer. And yet, it’s still one of the most enchanting cities not just in Italy but in all of Europe. There’s simply nowhere else like it. No matter how many times you go, the city always has something else to offer. (I’ve been many, many times so you can trust me on that.) Without further ado, here’s how to plan the perfect trip to Florence.
Where to Stay Portrait Firenze Overlooking the Arno
Where to Stay
Portrait Firenze
Overlooking the Arno and Ponte Vecchio, this member of the Leading Hotels of the World, owned by the Ferragamo family, exudes chic residential style. The spacious rooms and suites have marble bathrooms outfitted with the brand’s Bianco di Carrara bath products and are decorated with archival photographs and sketches by Salvatore Ferragamo. The restaurant, Caffè dell’Oro, which has sidewalk seating overlooking the river, serves a fabulous buffet breakfast and upscale Italian cuisine for lunch and dinner.
A new spa is in the works. Hotel Lungarno
Just across the river from Portrait Firenze, Hotel Lungarno—also owned by the Ferragamo family—exudes retro style, with nautical blue and white interiors and a blue-chip art collection that includes sketches by Picasso and Miro. It feels like the kind of place where Wes Anderson would stay. Sunset aperitivo on the riverfront terrace of Picteau is a must, while the Michelin-starred Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic dinner date.
Collegio alla Querce, Auberge Collection
One of the most luxurious new hotels to open in Florence, Collegio alla Querce occupies a former boarding school in Le Cure, a residential neighborhood 15 minutes from the centro storico. A painstaking renovation returned the building to its former glory, filling it with tasteful furnishings and 300 pieces of contemporary art. A cocktail bar in the former headmaster’s office, two restaurants (one with tables overlooking the garden and one under a shady pergola by the pool), and a serene spa make it feel more like an urban resort than a typical city hotel.
Villa San Michele, a Belmond Hotel Fresh off
Villa San Michele, a Belmond Hotel
Fresh off an 18-month renovation, Villa San Michele has triumphantly reopened in the bucolic hills of Fiesole, a 20-minute drive from the center of Florence. Rooms and suites have been tastefully refreshed with green Cipollino marble bathrooms, a new Guerlain spa has been added, and a collaboration with Milan-based J.J. Martin of La DoubleJ has created a new energy chapel where guests can start the day with yoga or sound healing.
Three restaurants offer options ranging from simple salads and grilled seafood to elegant fine dining. But the pool and extensive tiered gardens remain the property’s main draw. Helvetia & Bristol
Originally opened in 1885 and popular with artists and writers on the Grand Tour, the Helvetia & Bristol was bought by the Starhotels group and underwent a significant renovation and expansion in 2021.
Now a member of the Leading Hotels of the World, it exudes Old World charm yet feels updated in just the right ways. It’s home to an outpost of Cibrèo, the beloved restaurant established in 1979 by Fabio Picchi, and boasts the largest spa in the city center, complete with Roman baths. Hotel Savoy, a Rocco Forte Hotel
If you want to stay in the heart of the city center, look no further than the Savoy, whose doors open onto Piazza della Repubblica, where a Roman forum and, later, a bustling market once stood.
Originally built in 1893, it became one
Originally built in 1893, it became one of the city’s most beloved grand hotels frequented by aristocrats and wealthy travelers. When Rocco Forte took over in the early 2000s, the company returned the hotel to its original glory, with elegant suites decorated with prints and patterns and a restaurant serving impeccable Mediterranean cuisine by Fulvio Pierangelini. The recently renovated Bar Artemisia adds to the property’s appeal.
W Florence
Marriott’s buzzy W brand debuted recently in one of the city’s only modernist 20th-century buildings just a few minutes’ walk from Santa Maria Novella train station with a colorful, whimsical look that breaks with the city’s more classically designed hotels. Its rooftop bar, Zefiro, is a hotspot for creative cocktails with views of the Duomo, while a restaurant by Korean-American chef Akira Back, who trained under Nobu, brings delicious Japanese fusion cuisine to a city dominated by pasta and steak.
Grand Hotel Minerva
This four-star hotel is a stylish yet affordable alternative to the city’s pricey luxury hotels. Set on Piazza Santa Maria Novella and run by Collezione Em, a family-run brand with a handful of hotels in Florence, Venice, and Forte dei Marmi, it was redesigned by legendary mid-century architect Carlo Scarpa in the 1950s. The lobby, breakfast room, and rooftop pool transport you back to that glorious era.
Where to Eat and Drink Alla Vecchia Bettola
Where to Eat and Drink
Alla Vecchia Bettola
At this rustic trattoria in Oltrarno, you might rub elbows with stylish locals—literally. The tables are packed tightly together, ensuring a boisterous, convid black-and-white photographs decorating the place, the menu sticks to traditional Tuscan cuisine—the house wine is even brought to your table in a bottle cradled by a straw basket
Il Santobevitore
A contemporary classic with a loyal following, this wine bar/restaurant may look traditional, but it serves updated versions of local dishes. Depending on the season, you might find a caramelized onion tarte tatin, pasta with seafood and artichokes, or wild boar-stuffed ravioli with pecorino on the menu. There’s also a notable wine list. Cibrèo Caffè
The Cibrèo restaurant group has a mini empire of eateries in under-the-radar Sant’Ambrogio (plus an aforementioned outpost at the Helvetia & Bristol).
The caffè is the most casual of the bunch, with big red armchairs and vintage posters decorating the walls. Come for the design, stay for the tagliolini cacio e burro (fresh pasta with butter and cheese). ‘Ino
Skip the hour-long lines at Florence’s viral sandwich shop (you know which one I’m talking about) and head to this award-winning panino spot instead. Tucked away on a narrow side street just around the corner from the Uffizi, it serves huge and delicious panini made with high-quality cheeses, charcuterie, vegetables, and spreads.
Locale Firenze For a more upscale dining experience,
Locale Firenze
For a more upscale dining experience, this restaurant and bar housed in a centuries-old palazzo is a local favorite. Glass ceilings give the bar area a bit of a greenhouse feel, while the dining area is more sumptuous, with roomy semi-circular banquettes, oversized lamps, and contemporary art. Expect fresh, modern cuisine that melds local and international influences.
Gelateria Badiani
Originally opened in 1932, this historic gelateria invented the Buontalenti flavor during a competition in the 1960s. Go to their location near Piazza della Repubblica or inside the Mercato Centrale to try it and other classic flavors like chocolate and pistachio. Caffè Gilli
The oldest café in Florence dates back to 1733 and proudly flaunts its historic style, even after a recent refresh.
Standing on a corner of Piazza della Repubblica, it’s a reference point for Florentines. Sit on the terrace if you like or join the locals at the counter for a quick espresso and a budino di riso (rice pudding pastry) from the glass pastry case. Procacci
This pint-sized wine bar was originally opened by Leopoldo Procacci in 1885 and is now run by the noble Antinori family, one of Tuscany’s most important winemaking dynasties.
Come here to sample their excellent wines
Come here to sample their excellent wines by the glass and munch on mini sandwiches with truffles and other premium ingredients. What to Do
Galleria degli Uffizi
Florence’s top marquee museum is like an art history textbook come to life. Its hallowed halls contain Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, Caravaggio’s Medusa, Titian’s Venus of Urbino, plus paintings by Michelangelo, Raphael, Da Vinci, and many more.
The building itself is an inspiring example of Renaissance architecture designed by Giorgio Vasari as the offices of Medici Grand Duke Cosimo I. Book the first or last timed entry slot of the day for fewer crowds. Galleria dell’Accademia
Everyone goes to the Accademia to see Michelangelo’s larger-than-life statue of David—and it definitely leaves an outsized impression—but there’s lots more to see here.
A rich collection of early Italian painting, religious art, sculptures, and even musical instruments that once belonged to the grand dukes of Tuscany are on display. Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens
You could easily spend the better part of a day visiting Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens, which represent the ideal Italian Renaissance garden. Though the palace still bears the name of Luca Pitti, the Florentine banker who built it in the mid 15th century, it’s famous as the court of the Medici, who purchased it in 1550 and turned it into a symbol of their power and prestige.
Inside it are five distinct museums
Inside it are five distinct museums. The ones to prioritize are the Palatine Gallery, which displays the Medici’s collection of paintings, the Royal Apartments, and the Museum of Costume and Fashion. Palazzo Strozzi
This museum inside a Renaissance palazzo in the heart of Florence has been putting on one blockbuster exhibition after another. After organizing a rare showcase of works by Renaissance master Beato Angelico, it mounted “Rothko in Florence,” which explored the evolution of 20th-century American artist Mark Rothko’s abstract paintings and how his travels in Italy influenced him.
Check to see what’s on before you go. Ferragamo Museum
Fans of footwear should make a beeline to the Ferragamo Museum on the lower level of the building that houses the brand’s flagship boutique. Inside, archival photographs, sketches, prototypes, and text tell the story of Neapolitan cobbler Salvatore Ferragamo’s rise to fame and fortune. You’ll come away with a newfound respect for the artistic genius of the man known as “the shoemaker to the stars.”
Emilio Pucci Heritage Hub
Tucked inside Palazzo Pucci, which is still inhabited by Laudomia Pucci, the Emilio Pucci Heritage Hub preserves drawings, patterns, clothes, and furniture by famed designer Emilio Pucci, who’s beloved for his modern silhouettes, vibrant colors, and abstract patterns.
Though not normally open to the public, it’s possible to visit by appointment only for a cost of €250 per person (minimum spend €1,000) or organize private events, such as aperitivo or dinners. La Scuola del Cuoio
Founded in 1950 to give WWII orphans a trade, the Leather School still trains leather artisans today. You can visit on a guided tour and buy the high-quality bags, belts, and other items made there or sign up for a workshop, which range from half-day courses to weeklong private experiences.
Where to Shop Profumoir The art of perfumery
Where to Shop
Profumoir
The art of perfumery is still alive and well in Florence at a handful of places. Founded by Daniele Cavalli (son of Roberto) with help from master perfumer Sileno Cheloni, Profumoir has both a shop and a laboratory where you can create your own scent guided by one of their perfumers. Loretta Caponi
Florence and Europe’s high society members have been coming to Loretta Caponi’s namesake shop for beautifully embroidered nightgowns, children’s clothes, sheets, and tablecloths since she established it in 1967.
Now run by her daughter and nephew, it has expanded to include elegant dresses, camisoles, and other daywear. Il Bisonte
For high-quality Florentine leather, skip the stalls around San Lorenzo Market that sell cheap imitations from China and head to this store instead. Il Bisonte (meaning the bison) has been producing sustainable leather items since 1970 using only natural vegetable tanning.
Bizzarri
At this historic apothecary that looks like it hasn’t changed at all since it opened in 1842, glass jars containing essential oils, tinctures, herbal remedies, and teas line the antique wooden shelves. Having trouble falling asleep? Searching for a natural remedy for anxiety or something else that ails you? Stop by this shop and you’ll likely find it. Alberto Cozzi Rilegatore
One of the last remaining bookbinders in Florence, this boutique with a workshop in the back is run by the fifth generation of the Cozzi family.
Though they specialize in repairing antique books, they also sell beautiful marbled paper, notebooks, stationery, and small leather items. They also offer paper marbling workshops. Carolina Bucci
At her namesake shop on the Lungarno, fourth-generation jeweler Carolina Bucci sells necklaces, earrings, rings, and bracelets that feel classic yet contemporary simultaneously. Design your own piece with her colorful Forte Beads collection or stick with something classic, like her links necklace.
Source: www.vogue.com
