On the official PFW calendar, Gauchère falls between Rick Owens and Schiaparelli—two labels that are like very different sides of the same outsized-character coin. By contrast, Marie-Christine Statz neither designs for shock value nor envisions collections that cross over with art; yet her clothes assert themselves in ways that women would appreciate. Prior to the last of three presentations at the Gauchère offices today, Statz explained how she was sticking to her modus operandi of minimalist construction, only now with more emphasis on lightness. This meant anything from sleeveless jackets to straight-edged bandeau tops with slinky tube skirts. The penultimate look, her twist on a ‘smoking’ or tuxedo was notably unstructured—think suave collarless tailoring versus stuffy black tie. She pointed out how small details like placing the pockets lower or using snaps as closures can change how a garment interacts—or is “in movement”—with the body.
If many of the silhouettes were belted right at the natural waistline, she knows how to cut a trouser that hits perfectly at a lower-slung sweetspot. These, she said, along with the coats, are what fans come to her for, which is why she is also emphatic about building other categories. Crisp T-shirts with wrap skirts, leather-effect shorts and an asymmetric, draped dress with a single capped sleeve were all contenders—if only because they also signaled where Gauchère naturally overlaps with Phoebe Philo.
Even during the summer season, it is not surprising to see a fair degree of black along with some of the cement and beige tones, so the pops of red and brick—especially the tank and nylon pants outlined with leather—added definite sizzle.
Gauchère is continuing its collaboration with Benjamin Millepied, designing the costumes for his staging of Du Bout des Lèvres about the legendary singer Barbara that will be performed at the Folies Bergères next month. And before the end of the year, Statz will begin a one-month residency at the Villa Medicis in Rome through the support of Institut Français de la Mode and DEFI. While it’s likely the time away will open her aperture in some form or another, the fact that her steadiness and expertise are being duly recognized suggests she can continue to stay in her lane without fear of being drowned out by the more dramatic names around her
Source: www.vogue.com
