Pain perdu (“lost bread” in French) is the original French toast, created to give stale bread a second life. Thick slices of day-old brioche soak up a rich vanilla custard of eggs, milk, and cream before being pan-fried in butter until crisp and deep golden outside, while staying tender and custardy within. The technique transforms yesterday’s loaf into one of France’s most beloved breakfasts.
Chef Alexia Duchêne of Le Chêne in New York City finishes her version with homemade salted caramel sauce, whipped mascarpone cream, and a sprinkle of salt. It’s an elegant twist that’s surprisingly approachable—equally at home at holiday brunch as it is served for a dinner party dessert.
How is pain perdu different from French toast?
Pain perdu is the classic French toast. The two dishes share the same basic technique: Bread soaked in an egg-and-dairy custard, then cooked until golden and crisp outside while staying tender within. Pain perdu traditionally emphasizes giving stale bread a second life, whereas modern American French toast recipes often use thinner slices of bread that have been dried out in the oven. Duchêne’s version stays true to its French roots by using day-old brioche and finishing it with salted caramel and whipped mascarpone cream.
What’s the best bread for pain perdu?
Brioche is the traditional choice because its rich, buttery crumb absorbs plenty of custard without falling apart. Challah or another sturdy enriched loaf also works beautifully, especially if it’s a day or two old.
Can I use fresh bread instead of day-old bread?
Day-old brioche is ideal because it absorbs more custard without becoming soggy or falling apart—the very reason pain perdu was invented. If your bread is fresh, arrange slices on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and bake at 300° until dry to the touch, 10–12 minutes. Let cool slightly before soaking in the custard.
Can I make pain perdu ahead?
You can prepare the salted caramel sauce up to one week ahead and the whipped mascarpone cream up to one day ahead and refrigerate them. For the best texture, soak and cook the bread just before serving so the exterior stays crisp while the center remains soft and custardy.
For more French classics, check out the following recipes: Bistro-Style Croque Monsieur; Poulet Rôti; Ratatouille; and Dover Sole Meunière.
Recipe information
Ingredients
Sauce
Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Fleur de sel or kosher salt
Whipped Mascarpone Cream
vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 2 tsp. (or more) vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
Pain Perdu and Assembly
vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
day-old medium loaf brioche, sliced 1½”-thick
Tbsp. (or more) unsalted butter, divided
Fleur de sel or flaky sea salt
Need to make a substitution?
Preparation
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Sauce
Step 1
Heat ¾ cup plus 1 Tbsp. heavy cream in a small saucepan over low heat until warm. Leave over low heat to keep warm until ready to use.
Step 2
Meanwhile, heat 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar in a large skillet over medium heat, swirling pan if needed, until melted, 5–7 minutes. Continue to cook caramel, swirling pan occasionally, until deep mahogany and wisps of smoke rise from the surface (the bubbling will lessen slightly too), 8–12 minutes more. (Caramel will go from perfectly caramelized to burnt very quickly so watch carefully. It is better to skew toward over caramelized than under here.)
Step 3
Whisking constantly, carefully pour warm cream into caramel; remove pan from heat and stir in 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces. Let cool slightly, then season with fleur de sel or kosher salt. Set salted caramel sauce aside.
Do Ahead: Sauce can be made 1 week ahead. Transfer to an airtight container; cover and chill. Reheat over low before using.
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Step 4
Vigorously whisk together 1¼ cups chilled heavy cream, ¼ cup mascarpone, and ¼ cup (28 g) powdered sugar in a medium bowl until soft peaks form. Scrape in seeds from ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise; discard pod or reserve for another use. If using 2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract instead, add and then taste and add more as desired if needed. Set whipped mascarpone cream aside.
Do Ahead: Whipped mascarpone cream can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.
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Pain Perdu and Assembly
Step 5
Whisk 4 large eggs and ⅓ cup (67 g) granulated sugar in a large bowl until frothy. Scrape in seeds from ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise; discard pod or reserve for another use. Or add 2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract. Whisk until smooth, then add 1¼ cups whole milk, ½ cup heavy cream, and a pinch of kosher salt and whisk custard until no streaks of unincorporated egg remain. Working with 1 slice at a time, submerge 1 day-old medium loaf brioche, sliced 1½”-thick, in custard and let soak long enough to saturate but not so long that they fall apart. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet.
Step 6
Melt 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a skillet over medium heat. Working with 2 or 3 slices, cook bread until golden brown underneath, 2–5 minutes. Turn, reduce heat to medium-low, add 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, and cook until browned on other side, 2–5 minutes. Transfer to plates. Repeat with remaining bread over medium-low heat, working in batches of 2 or 3 slices and adding more butter to pan as needed.
Step 7
Top pain perdu with a dollop of whipped mascarpone cream, then spoon salted caramel sauce over and sprinkle with fleur de sel or flaky sea salt.
FrenchEuropeanBrunchBreakfastMascarponeCheeseNut-Free
Source: www.bonappetit.com
